Porsche 912-6 Projects – 17




6-3-14 clutch 5 sm 6-3-14 clutch 4 sm 6-3-14 clutch sm 6-4-14 engine out smI thought I might have a clutch installation problem so I bit the bullet and dropped the motor out yesterday to make sure everything was alright. And it was. My son and I could see no issues with the clutch or the throwout bearing arm. My son’s opinion was that there was nothing wrong but that we did not take into account that, since the car does not have limited slip, when we turned a hub, the other side turned in the opposite direction, as it should. Since the motor is fairly low compression compared to today’s motors, there was not enough resistance to our turning the hub when the car was in gear. Had the wheels been on the car and the tires on the ground, we would not have been able to push the car in either direction. I think the whole problem is getting the clutch properly adjusted which is complicated by the fact that I replaced the clutch cable and had removed the clutch release arm. It is a matter of getting everything back into its proper alignment.




6-4-14 insulators sm 6-4-14 insulators 2 smHowever I did discover something while the motor was out which was that the crossover oil line was very close to the heat exchangers in a couple places. I had some nomex spark plug covers from my small block Chevy days which I cut and mounted to the oil line. Don’t know how much help they may be but they surely will have some benefit.






6-4-14 rear brake smI re-installed the motor today and, along with hooking up things on the bottom, I did get the fuel lines and electrical hooked up in the engine bay.  My rear brake pad spreaders came today so I could finish off the brake system. All I need to do now is bleed the system.











6-5-14 cruise control 2 sm 6-5-14 cruise control sm 6-6-14 AC 3 smIt was after lunch before I had a chance to work on the car today. Earlier in this thread I had installed cruise control. Today I re-attached the cruise cable.







6-5-14 condenser sm

Next up was re-installing the AC condenser on the engine deck lid. It is a tight fit so I had to loosen the deck lid mounting bolts which meant I had to re-align the deck lid and the striker. Turned out to be quite the job.  After installing the AC compressor and adjusting the belt, I ran the compressor wire which ran from the front of the car back to the compressor.  And then I drank a beer!!!







Busy day today. Cleaned the house, had my eyes checked and mowed the lawn. We are going to Indiana this weekend to visit Sharon’s parents who are still having some issues.

I did get in a little quality time on the car though. When I finished up installing the compressor yesterday I did not try to close the engine lid. Tried that today and it was a no go due to the condenser hitting the compressor. After talking to Retroair in Texas, I did as they said and made the clearance paper thin between the condenser and the body as the lid closes. And that did it. The lid closes and, best of all, opens when I pull the release handle.




6-6-14 AC 5 sm 6-6-14 AC 6 sm 6-6-14 AC sm 6-6-14 AC 4 smWith that out of the way, I began the process of hooking up the AC hoses. There was only one with crimped ends on both ends of the hose and that was the one that goes from the condenser to the compressor. After routing the hose behind the motor, I installed the charging ports on the compressor and then attached the line to the one port. I have installed Vintage Air on two previous cars so I have some experience with this. Very important is to make sure you install the proper seals and coat them with the supplied oil. One hose down, three to go. The others will be somewhat more difficult as two of them will run from the front of the car to the engine bay and none of them has the crimped connector on one end. My son lent me his AC hose crimping tool so I will see how that works shortly.







6-17-14 #6 hose 2 6-17-14 #6 hose 6-16-14 AC drier smFinally got back at it this week. Running the AC lines was the number one priority. I ran the #6 line from the condenser to the drier in the LF wheelwell. Some high quality clamps did the job of fastening the lines to the bottom of the car.








6-17-14 #10 hose 2 6-17-14 #6 hose 2 6-17-14 #10 hose 4 6-17-14 #10 hose 6-17-14 AC manifoldThe larger #10 hose runs from the compressor to the rear of the combination evaporator/blower in the car. I ran the hose down the right side under the car to a hole I cut that feeds the hose into the smuggler’s hole. A local truck repair place that has tons of AC and hydraulic fittings had a #10 bulkhead piece that I mounted on the wall between the smuggler’s hole and the interior. They had to order the #6 fitting. Once they are both in place, I will run short hoses from the evaporator to the bulkhead fittings. The #10 hose from the compressor will mount to one while a #6 hose will be run from the drier to the evaporator.





6-17-14 AC compressor fittings 2 6-17-14 AC compressor fittings 6-17-14 AC condenser fittingsAll the AC hose fittings are now in place in the engine compartment.










6-17-14 AC  hose crimper 6-17-14 AC  hose crimper 3
My son lent me his hydraulic high pressure hose crimping tool to do the AC lines.









First you have to cut the hose to size, fit it in its final spot, and then clock it by making a mark on the hose and the fitting to make sure you can line up the fitting to fit the receptacle. There is a sight hole on the fitting so you can make sure you have the hose fully seated against the end of the fitting.

6-17-14 AC  hose crimper 4Next you choose the correct sized die for the crimper.








6-17-14 AC  hose crimper 7 6-17-14 AC  hose crimper 6 6-17-14 AC  hose crimper 5Place the fitting into the die and close the opening half locking it into place with the pin. Once it is locked into place, the hydraulic knob is turned to open. You then turn the big black handle to tighten the device until you have the fitting locked into place.






6-17-14 AC  hose crimper 2With the fitting placed correctly and the the fitting tighened into place, you close the hydraulic knob and begin depressing the handle to create pressure. You keep doing this until you the handle stops. Release the hydraulic knob, undo the pin and remove the crimped fitting from the device. When I talked to the people at the trucking company who have crimped hoses for me in the past, they mentioned that if you do the crimp correctly, there should be rubber being pushed out of the sight hole. I won’t know for sure if the crimp worked until I pull down a vacuum on the system but it looked good to me.









6-18-14 hoses 6-18-14 wrench 4 6-18-14 wrench 6-18-14 wrench 3 sm 6-18-14 evaporator fittings 6-18-14 wrench 2Finished up the AC lines today. After playing around with the bulkhead fitting this morning, I soon realized that it would not work. The hoses between it and the evaporator would have been very, very short which would have made it even more difficult to hook up. So I used the other grommet I had purchased and ran the #10 larger line directly to the evaporator. I had cut a notch in my bracket so I could get to the nut for this fitting but the cutout was not large enough to fit a wrench. I put some lumber under the interior AC unit to hole it in place, removed the two bracket bolts on the side and then lowered it enough so the wrench would work. Or would work if it were much shorter. I had a Kobalt 1″ wrench that I was not in love with so I cut the end of to make a shorty. It worked.




6-18-14 evaporator-drier hose 3 6-18-14 evaporator-drier hose 6-18-14 evaporator-drier hose 2The last line to run was a #6 hose from the drier to the evaporator. The instructions had called for installing the drier in the left front wheelwell which is what I did. However, the other day when I called about an issue, the AC provider said the drier should be in the RF wheelwell and that I may be short on the hose if I kept in in the left wheelwell. I had oil lines in the right wheelwell so I kept it in the left one and was short about 6″ on the hose. So when I returned the bulkhead parts I bought another piece of hose. All went well here as I found a grommet that worked and soon had the line run and crimped.





6-18-14 putty on evaporator fittingsA couple of things remained to finish out the AC. One was to wrap the evaporator pipes with heavy caulking to prevent condensation forming and dripping on my wife’s legs.







6-18-14 drain tube 5 6-18-14 drain tube 4 6-18-14 drain tube 6-18-14 drain tube 2Related to that issue was the installation of the drain from the evaporator to the ground. Once I had drilled the appropriate hole size and installed a grommet, I ran the line from the bottom of the interior AC unit to the floor. I had to notch the floorboard to accommodate the line.





6-18-14 vacuum 3 6-18-14 vacuumNow that all the lines were installed, I used my son’s vacuum pump to evacuate the lines of moisture. I let it run for about two hours. It has been about 3 1/2 hours since I shut off the pump and the gauges have not moved. Evidently no leaks which makes me very happy.












6-19-14 heater hoses 3 6-19-14 heater hoses 4 6-19-14 condenser lines 3Today was spent finishing up the engine bay. I began by installing the heater hoses. The one of the left side goes from the blower motor to the inlet on the tin. The other top hose goes from the blower over to the right and fits beneath the AC compressor mount. Clearance is really tight for the condenser. I used a smaller diameter hose to give a little more room for the condenser. To make that work, a reducer is needed to go from the stock hose to the smaller hose. I used one near the blower and another one below the compressor just before the hose exits through the tin.





6-19-14 heater hoses 2 smUnder the car the hose on the right side connects directly to the heat exchanger.








6-19-14 heater hoses smI ran into a problem when installing the hose under the car on the left side. There is a very acute angle that goes from the engine tin to the heat exchanger. I could not make the gray hose bend enough to make it work. I had a couple pieces of hose left over from where I attached the heat exchangers to the control valves. These hoses have a lot more give in them and can make tighter bends. I spliced the two of them together to make one and was able to make this type of hose work. I will order a new one and replace this spliced one with a one piece hose. At least now I know it will work.





6-19-14 condenser linesBack in the engine bay another issue arose when I tried to install the black plastic air hose from the blower to the inlet for the fan shroud. I had run the AC lines for the condenser in a way that they dropped straight down as can been seen in the first photo above. Having the lines there did not allow enough room for me to install the plastic hose. After looking at it for a bit, I decided I needed to re-route the condenser lines. I needed them to go towards the back of the engine bay rather than down. My solution was to attach them directly to both the bottom of the deck lid hinge and to the strut. By doing this, the lines were forced to go to the rear. Unfortunately, to make this change, I had to disconnect both lines, thus allowing air back into the lines. It was rewarding though to hear the “psshhh” sound when I loosed the first line. Obviously it was holding the vacuum.





6-19-14 engine smAfter making this change, I was able to install the plastic hose and the engine bay was finally all back together. I used new “O” rings on both of the condenser lines to make sure there were no leaks. I hooked up the vacuum pump and let it run for another hour or so. A couple hours after disconnecting it, the vacuum was still being held as it should. The photo shows what stuffing six pounds of s#@t into a five pound area looks like.




The end is within sight. My son’s birthday is Saturday and he is coming over to celebrate. What better way to celebrate than to bleed brakes and do the final adjustment on the clutch. I also have to install the newly painted rear bumper valance and bumper guards. When I took the photos of the new taillight lenses I noticed the bumper seals were pretty nasty looking. I have new ones and will install them before I install the valance.




It was afternoon before I made it to the garage. I worked on adjusting the clutch and believe I have it close. When my son arrives tomorrow, I can check to make sure I have the proper throw amount. We will also bleed the brakes.




6-20-14 bumper guards 2 6-20-14 bumper guards 6-22-14 car lr sm 6-20-14 rear valanceNext up was installing the center valance on the rear. I decided to hold off on installing the bumper seals until it is time to do paint work. That would be the best time to replace them. I had the bumper guards chromed and bought new rubber inserts. After installing them, I bolted everything together to finish off the rear end of the car. If all goes well tomorrow, it should be on the road at last.




It’s running. My son was running late yesterday so my wife was honored to be able to help bleed the brakes?? Brought back memories of when we used to do track events. She and I bled the brakes before every event so she knew how to do this. By the time my son arrived, we had the brakes bled. After adjusting the clutch, we began the process of firing it up. It took some cranking but eventually all the air was purged out of the fuel lines and she fired. The idle is a bit lower than it was prior to disassembling everything which may be related to the AC pulley and to the fact that there is no longer an O2 sensor in place. Since there is no computer I am not sure of the sensor’s function on this ’83 SC motor.

Once we had it running I backed it out of the driveway for a short test drive in the subdivision. I soon discovered I had no first or second gear. When I disconnected the shift coupler, instead of just removing the hex head pin, I had unbolted the coupler itself. It was obviously out of alignment. The only other issue was that the front end was too low. On the plus side, no fuel or oil leaks. At that point we parked it as the main reason for Matt coming over was to celebrate his birthday. We took him and his family out to eat.

This morning I adjusted the shifter using some instructions I found on the web. As for the ride height, I had to pull the torsion bar adjuster off on the right side and re-index it as I did not have enough adjustment. Got that done and I now had the ride height correct and shifting working. Now I need to take it somewhere to have the front end aligned and the AC charged.



After getting everything back together with the engine and suspension looking so nice, the marginal paint is now bothering me. It was last painted about 20 years ago and is cracked in some areas and showing sand marks in others. I also am thinking of installing a “S” front valance. Not sure on a ducktail with the narrow body but now would be the time if I decide to paint it.

The other issue is what color to paint it. Since it was originally a Polo Red car, it is tempting to repaint it in its original color. This is only the second white car I have had in my lifetime with the other white car having be my last 911 track car.









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