Ferrari 348-Engine Out Service-5


12/16/13

 

12-16-13 new compressor 3 sm 12-16-13 new compressor 2 smBefore I could install the new AC compressor, I had to remove the two main lines from the old compressor and transfer them to the new one. They had to be clocked the same so they would fit and hook up to the existing lines. Had to put the compressor’s on the vice to hold them in place.

 

 

 

12-16-13 ac wiring sm 12-16-13 Alternator belt 2 smWith that done I could install the new compressor. There are two bolts at the bottom and one bolt for the belt tension adjuster. I had removed the bracket along with the compressor and so it had to be bolted in place first. Once it was in place, I could insert the two bottom bolts that mount the compressor directly to the block. With the tensioner bolts in its fully released position, I could mount the new belt. It is adjusted by a 13mm bolt attached to the compressor mounting bolt on the bracket. This bolt is turned clockwise to tighten the belt. I used the Staeger tensioning gauge to set the tension.

 

 

12-16-13 ac wiring 5 sm 12-16-13 ac wiring 4 sm 12-16-13 ac wiring 3 smThe wiring on the new compressor was too long. I cut it to shorten it and them used a solder connection to re-attach everything. I secured the wire to the AC bracket.

 

 

 

12-16-13 Alternator belt 3 sm 12-16-13 AC belt smWith the AC compressor in place, I now tensioned the new belt for the alternator. There is a 17mm bolt on the bottom of the tensioner wheel that is turned counter-clockwise to add tension to the belt. Once the tension is set, you then tighten the the 17mm bolt on the wheel. The belt guard that had been removed to install the belt must be re-installed.

 

 

12-16-13 ingnition module cover 2 sm 12-16-13 ingnition module cover smEarly in this thread, “348Jeff” recommend I install the ignition module covers. Did that today.

 

 

 

12-16-13 air filter smI also installed the new air cleaner in the air box.

 

 

 

 

I am waiting for the heater hose that attaches to the water pump housing. Somehow it was shipped to PA!! Should be here shortly. Once it is here, the motor will be ready to install. My son is leaving for vacation tomorrow afternoon so it will sometime after Christmas before we will have time to do the installation. This will give me time to get back on some projects on my Porsche 912-6 and to get the Falcon ready to sell. Plenty to do!!

 

12/29/13

 

 

 

12-27-13 gas tank lowered 7 sm 12-27-13 gas tank lowered 3 sm 12-27-13 gas tank lowered 5 sm 12-27-13 gas tank lowered sm 12-27-13 gas tank lowered 2 sm 12-27-13 ECU plug hole smMy son and I were going to put the engine in last Friday but his water heater decided to quit and he spent most of the day dealing with that. I did have some time to do some preparation on Friday that paid off today. In talks with the Ferrari technician he mentioned lowering the gas tank to make it easier to feed the plugs for the ECU’s through the firewall. Buying four longer bolts was the first step. I supported the gas tank with my stands and then removed the bolts one at a time to replace with the longer bolts. There are two nuts on the firewall that also have to be loosened. Once everything was loose, I simply lowered the tank a little at a time with the jack stands. It was about an inch lower which made all the difference today when we fed the plugs through the firewall.

 

 

12-27-13 seat belt mouse plug smI also disabled the seat belt mouse by unplugging the wire at each seat.

 

 

 

 

 

12-29-13 ECU engine in 5 sm 12-29-13 ECU wiring sm 12-29-13 ECU engine in 4 sm 12-29-13 ECU engine in 3 sm 12-29-13 ECU engine in 2 smBy the time my son arrived at about 8:30 this morning, I had the engine within about 8″ of where it needed to be. My buddy Reese came over as well to add another set of eyes. Threading the ECU plugs into the passenger compartment was a challenge, especially the right one as the AC lines add to the complexity. As we gradually lowered the body we had to reach inside to make sure we kept the cable pulled tight. To get the boots in place, we used a needle nose pliers to grab the boot from the inside and pull it through the hole.

 

 

Lining up the 22 bolt mounting holes was also a challenge, especially the 12 that mount the subframe to the firewall. With some jacking of the table and the use of the jack stands, we eventually started all of the bolts and nuts. We discovered that you have to hook up certain items on the firewall at various points as we were lowering the body. Such as the heater hose, the water pump hoses, the fuel lines, etc. Nothing complicated but it all takes time.

By four o’clock we had the everything hooked up, had the heat shields in place, adjusted the parking brake cable, and bled the clutch. We had all of the AC lines fastened as well as the oil lines and all of the electrical connections. The throttle cable is in place.

We could not bleed the brakes as the ignition must be on to engage the ABS. I have an oil filter wrench on order that has been slow to arrive so we could not mount the air box. I will have to hook up the ECU’s as well. Assuming the oil filter arrives shortly, I should have it running in a few days. Now that the bottom of the motor is exposed, I can finish cleaning that area. I will hold off installing the inner fender liners until I have at least driven it around the block to check for any leaks. I also will have to remove the upper cover in the trunk so I can install the new AC drier and have the lines charged. Getting closer to having it back on the road.

12/30/13

I also dismantled the table that I had used for the motor and have the pieces stored away.

12-30-13 engine bottom clean sm 12-30-13 engine bottom clean 2 smI did get to spend a couple hours this afternoon cleaning the bottom of the motor. Won’t score huge concours points but it is now acceptable. It wasn’t overly dirty to begin with.

 

 

 

 

 

12/31/13
12-31-13 ECU 2 sm 12-31-13 ECU smHooked up the ECU’s and re-installed the covers today.
12-31-13 trunk 9 sm
12-31-13 trunk 5 sm 12-31-13 trunk 11 sm 12-31-13 trunk 10 sm 12-31-13 trunk 3 sm 12-31-13 trunk sm 12-31-13 trunk 19 sm 12-31-13 drier smIn anticipation of replacing the AC drier and to charge the AC system, I removed the top carpeted cover in the trunk area. There are three metal strips about halfway up in the trunk area that have to be removed as well as the trim piece around the fresh air intake. Three screws on each side must also be removed. Once I had pulled up the trunk seal and removed the wires to the trunk light, the entire section came out as one piece exposing all of the mechanicals.
12-31-12 oil filter 2 sm 12-31-12 oil filter sm 12-31-12 airbox 5 sm 12-31-12 airbox 4 sm 12-31-12 airbox 3 sm 12-31-12 airbox smI added oil and coolant but was stymied because my oil filter tool still has not arrived. I called the dealership where I bought the car and asked if I could borrow theirs. They graciously said yes and, after a couple hours of driving, I had it in hand. Short work was made of removing the filter and installing the new one. Now I could install the air box. Those pesky little screws that mount the air box to the air sensor piece were tricky to get started. Removing the electrical connectors helped. Now everything is ready for the final steps of bleeding the brakes, starting the motor, bleeding the coolant lines, and then charging the AC system. My son will be over in the morning and, hopefully, we will have it running and ready for the road.
1/1/14
1-1-14 348 transmission dipstick 2 sm 1-1-14 348 transmission dipstick smFirst thing this morning I checked the transmission fluid level. The dipstick is located on the left rear side and requires a 17mm socket to remove. Once the dipstick is removed, the transmission could be topped up through this hole, albeit slowly. The level and quality of the fluid were perfect.
1-1-14 348 ac drier 5 sm 1-1-14 348 ac drier 3 sm 1-1-14 348 ac o ring sm 1-1-14 348 ac drier smThe new AC drier came from Ricambi and had the correct pressure switch and connector. It was simply a matter of unbolting the lines and then releasing the old drier from the bracket. I installed new o rings on the lines and reassembled everything. I removed the switch from the old drier to keep as a backup as it was working.

 

 

 

My son arrived and we hooked up the battery cables so we could engage the ignition to bleed the brakes. All went well here and we soon had brakes.

Now it was time for the big moment…starting the engine. It took three cranking times before the fuel rails were pressurized and then it lit. Initial fast idle was soon followed by it settling down to the normal idle of 1000RPM. We let it run long enough to make sure the thermostat was working and checked for leaks. None were found and all was well. I went through the gears with the car on the lift and everything was working as it should. Topped up the fluid levels and we were very happy. No weird noises.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZnNzO5czxjo

1-1-14 348 vaccum pump sm 1-1-14 348 ac gauges sm 1-1-14 348 ac ports smI was under the impression that the AC had been converted to 134a but the conversion connectors were not installed on the AC charging ports. A quick run to the local Autozone provided us with the connectors. Once they were installed my son hooked up the vacuum pump. After letting it run for five minutes and seeing that we had successfully set up a vacuum in the lines, we let it sit for an hour or so to make sure we did not have any AC leaks. After my son hooked up the charging lines, I started the motor and we began the charging process. All went well until we got up to a pressure of 150 when the high pressure side began to leak. We unhooked everything and tried it again with the same results. We suspect either the cheap fittings or possibly the o ring in the charging connector from the gauges. Either way, we were done for the day with the AC. We will get new o rings and better quality connectors and try it again another day. With the temps in the 40’s, I don’ think the AC will be missed.

 

We installed the wheels and tires and then took a short trip around my neighborhood just to see if everything was working. Again, everything was OK and I sent my son on his way, with many thanks, as he had given up another morning to this project.

Took my wife to lunch and then installed the inner fender liners and the bottom trays.I changed clothes and took my wife for a test ride. One of the things we have done for many years is to go to an ice cream place to get milk shakes and then slowly cruise the countryside. With milk shakes in hand from Coldstone, we headed for some of my favorite local roads for a shakedown run. Around 40 miles later, we were back at the house. No leaks and the car drove great.

The old clutch was toast and it was slipping so badly the last time I drove the car that I barely made it home. After driving the car with the new clutch and release bearing, the driving experience has been transformed. It shifts so much better now and, while I took it very easy on the clutch, the motor feels livelier. I suspect there was some slippage happening from the day I bought it. Since I had nothing to compare it to, I wasn’t aware of how the car should drive. It sure felt great today.

Many thanks to my son for his help, to Tom at the dealership for his great advice, to my buddy Reese for providing a helping hand even though he recently had back surgery and to the F Chatter’s who offered advice and encouragement.

And last, but certainly not least, to my wife for storing the engine lid in her bedroom and for being understanding about my spending so much time in the garage. Since this was the fourth time she has had either a hood, engine lid or trunk lid stored in her bedroom during the past couple years, my son thought we should go buy a hood and keep one there as it seems like the correct thing to do!!

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