Ferrari 348-Engine Out Service-1


I recently purchased my first Ferrari, a 1990 348. The car came with all the records back to day one. It had been only a few thousand miles since the last belt service but that happened five years ago. I bought the car knowing I needed to do the 30K service. To most that would mean spending a bunch of money at a dealership. To me and my son it was a challenge as we both anticipated removing the motor just to see how everything works.

I began the removal process yesterday and finished it up today. During the latter part of last year and the early part of this year, I did a body off restoration on a 1964 Corvette and posted the entire process on the Corvette Forum website. I did this to share my experience which would hopefully help someone doing a similar project. However, I received more that I gave as everyone was very helpful in pointing out issues with some of the things I was doing. It was my first time doing this type of project and I really appreciated the many constructive comments that were posted. And they saved me a bunch of time and grief. I am planning on posting my progress on this project for the same reasons and welcome any suggestions.

11-23-13 jack points 8 sm 11-23-13 jack points sm 11-23-13 jack points 2 sm 11-23-13 jack points 4 sm“My Ferrari 348” website provided a great tutorial on how to remove the motor. With his car being a later model 348 some of his photos did not directly relate to my car but were close enough that we could figure out what to do. The first job was getting the car raised on my lift. I did a search and did not find a good way to do this. After looking everything over, I used my long low jack to raise the rear end on the sub frame where the suspension mounts to raise the car high enough so I could get the arms under the car. The arms were located as below.



11-23-13 rear suspension 15 sm 11-23-13 rear suspension 14 sm11-23-13 ground strap clip 2 sm 11-23-13 ground strap clip smThe first thing I did was unhook the battery. I then removed all of the fender liners. They are fastened with phillips screws and were the foundation for a large pile of removed parts. On the driver’s side, the top liner has a clip holding a wire that must be opened to release the wire.


11-23-13 bottom 6 sm 11-23-13 bottom from rear sm 11-23-13 undertrays out 5 sm 11-24-13 removed parts smThere are three access panels on the bottom of the car that also need to be removed. I bagged and labeled all of the fasteners as they were removed. I placed some protective covers around the engine bay and then removed the muffler heat shields and the air box on top of the motor. Now the pile was complete.




11-23-13 undertrays out 2 sm11-23-13 oil tank 2 sm 11-24-13 oil line 3 sm 11-24-13 oil line 2 sm 11-23-13 oil tank 2 smThe oil must be drained in two places, one at the oil tank in the right rear corner of the engine bay and the other at the drain plug on the front of the motor. The oil line to the tank must also be unfastened which required a trip to Tractor Supply to buy a large adjustable wrench for the 46MM nut. The oil line must also be removed on the oil cooler which required a 37MM wrench, the same size as one of the oil lines on my Porsche. Once I had the lines off, I bagged the ends to prevent dripping.


11-24-13 radiator drain 2 sm 11-23-13 fender liners out 14 sm 11-24-13 radiator drain smDraining the radiators was next on the list. The LH radiator as a drain plug at the bottom. The RH drain plug is also at the bottom of the coolant radiator which is above the oil cooler. The coolant lines must also be removed at the coolant tank. At the very front of the motor, there are coolant and heater hoses that must be loosened and removed. Once they are loose, the larger hoses will slide off as the body is raised from the engine. The smaller coolant hose must be watched closely as the body is raised and needed some persuasion for it to release. It must be attached as the engine is slowly raised during the engine installation.



11-24-13 ecu 2 sm 11-24-13 ecu smInside the car behind the seats, the two ECU’s must be removed and the plugs disconnected. The other connectors in that area must also be disconnected. As the body is raised these connectors must be fed through a hole and into the engine bay. The body must be raised a bit at at time to allow these connectors to be fed through the hole.





11-24-13 battery cable sm 11-23-13 ground strap sm 11-24-13 clip 3 sm 11-24-13 charcoal canister 3 sm 11-24-13 charcoal canister 2 smThe ground strap from the battery is attached to the transmission and must be removed as well as the positive wire that is attached to the positive battery connector. There are electrical connectors in each wheelwell that must also be disconnected as well as the two connectors to the charcoal canister. The other lines to the charcoal canister must also be removed.



One of the first instructions was to remove the engine lid. Initially we did not think we would have to remove it but getting to the throttle cable behind the intake manifold and to the heater hoses did require its removal. Be sure to mark the mounting points with a marker before removing it to make sure it will line up when re-attached.

11-24-13 engine lid smAs I became older, I began to snore. So that both my wife and I could sleep better, we have separate bedrooms. Since her bedroom is larger, the engine lid will be stored there. This makes the fourth hood or trunk lid that has now been stored in her bedroom for varying lengths of time since I retired five years ago. She said she is honored that there is now a large Ferrari part in her bedroom and would kneel before it each evening before going to bed. She might have been pulling my leg!!!


11-23-13 brake line 3 sm 11-23-13 brake line sm 11-23-13 undertrays out sm 11-24-13 hose to airbox 2 sm 11-24-13 parking brake cable 2 smWhen removing the air box, there are two hoses attached to the bottom of it that must be detached. The brake line must be separated on the driver’s side. The parking brake cable and the shifter cables must also be detached.



11-24-13 muffler mount 2 smAfter having someone evacuate the AC system, there are two lines that must be disconnected on the firewall on the right side above the fuel filter. The upper muffler must be detached from the frame.



11-24-13 throttle cable 2 sm 11-24-13 throttle cable smThe fuel return lines must be removed at the front of the intake manifold as well as the throttle cable. At the front of the intake manifold there is a C clip that must be removed on the throttle cable. At the rear of the intake manifold, the throttle cable must be removed from its mount and then pulled through to the front.





11-24-13 tie down strap 2 smAt this point, everything should be disconnected. It is a very good time to look everything over as it is now time to begin the engine removal. Since so much of the weight is on the rear of the car, we had some concerns about what would happen to the car on the lift when that weight is removed. Would it want to tip off the lift. Better safe than sorry so we ran a strap behind the seats and strapped the car to two of the lift arms.



11-23-13 frame mount 2 sm11-24-13 engine out 9 sm 11-24-13 engine out 13 sm 11-24-13 engine out 14 sm 11-24-13 engine out 2 sm 11-24-13 engine out 3 sm 11-24-13 engine out 8 sm 11-24-13 engine out 15 smOnce that was done, we loosened the front twelve bolts. Next we lowered the car so the sub frame was resting on the table I had built. We then removed those front twelve bolts, the four bolts at the rear and the three nuts on each shock tower. One nut remains on each shock tower. With all the bolts removed, we began lifting the body off the motor very gingerly. As I mentioned earlier, you must feed the ECU plugs through the hole a little bit at a time. Once we lifted the car high enough to feed those plugs through and all else was clear, we simply raised the body all the way up on the lift leaving the motor resting on the table. It was out!!!! Not a terribly difficult job especially since I had my son’s help.


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