Body Off Restoration of 1964 Corvette Coupe – Part 36


3/7/13

 

 

3-7-13 glove box sm3-7-13 glove box light 4 sm 3-7-13 glove box light 3 sm 3-7-13 glove box light 2 sm 3-7-13 glove box light sm 3-7-13 glove box 2 smNot much time spent working on the car today.  It was 3:30 before I was in the garage.  The rubber bumper for the glove box arrived today.  The glove box light was here as well.  In a post about the glove box light, it was recommended to put a plug in lead to make it easier to take out the glove box.  Evidently, the strange shape lead for the glove box light is difficult to remove without damaging either the lead or the light.

 

 

3-7-13 door panels sm 3-7-13 door panel old 2 sm 3-7-13 door panel old sm 3-7-13 door panel new sm 3-7-13 door panel new 3 smI retrieved the old door panels from the attic as I needed to transfer the hockey stick and door handle trim to the new panels.  My hockey sticks were in good shape especially after I polished them.  As you can see, my original door panels were not in good shape.

 

 

3/8/13

 

 

Today I was wishing I had bought the deluxe door panels with everything already installed, even though they are big bucks.  It is very time consuming cutting out all of the holes, installing the hockey strips and the reflectors.  What turned out to be the most time consuming was installing the washers for the screws that mount the panels.   First I had to locate the holes.  I used the  old panel as a guide.  Once I had a hole made, I used my drifts to keep the panel in alignment.  I also used those drifts to make the hole.  I began with a pointed rod to make the initial hole.  I then progressively used larger drifts until I had the hole the correct size.  I did this in lieu of using a drill as they are notorious for catching on fabric, and especially carpet, causing damge.

 

 

3-8-13 door panel 9 sm 3-8-13 door panel 6 sm 3-8-13 door panel 7 sm 3-8-13 door panel 8 smOnce I had the hole the correct size and after inserting the washer, the rear part must be flattened out to hold it in place.  I screwed up the first two washers before I discovered the solution.  Once the washer is inserted, take a metal sheers and make four small cuts on the rear.  Then I used one of the drifts and a hammer to bend over the tabs that were created by the small cuts.  I did not have enough washers but I now have the hang of doing it, although it is still a slow process.

 

 

 

3-8-13 door shield panels 3 sm 3-8-13 door shield panels 2 sm 3-8-13 door shield panels 5 sm 3-8-13 door shield panels 4 sm 3-8-13 door opening rod sm 3-8-13 door shield panels smKnowing that I could not complete the door panels until the parts arrive, I decided to install the door shields.  These were missing on both of my doors and I secured them on an EBay auction.  The passenger door had holes and fasteners already installed while the driver’s door did not have even the holes drilled.  Makes me wonder if the driver’s door had been replaced.  I drilled the holes, mounted the fasteners and then installed the driver’s door shields after applying caulking to the rear.

 

 

 

3-8-13 grill trim 2 sm 3-8-13 grill trim smThe last job was installing the trim around the grill.  Ran out of time to do anything else today.

 

 

 

 

 

3/9/13

 

 

Turns out my son did not have to work today so he came over to help me on the car.  First up we bled the brakes since we thought if we actually got the car to run, it might be good to be able to stop.  The only leak that showed up was on one of the lines to the master cylinder which needed to be tightened.  I now have brakes.

 

 

3-9-13 burnt wire smNow we were ready to get the car running.  Up to this point, I had not hooked up the power cable to the battery.  Did that and was rewarded with smoke both in the engine bay and under the dash!!  It burned at least 3′ of the white/black wire bundled with the red wires that go to the upper connector on the horn relay.  Initially we could not tell where the smoke came from in the interior.   When we checked for shorts at the fuse block plug on the engine side, we had a direct short on the black/white wire terminal.  Tracing that wire on the wiring diagram led us to the ammeter.  Sure enough, we had wire damage there as well.  After unhooking the ammeter, out short was gone.

 

Now that we were snakebitten, we started checking for shorts on other wires but our search was inconclusive.  So we very tentatively hooked up the positive cable to the battery again.  No smoke this time.  After waiting a bit to see if something happened, we finally decided we had found the problem.

 

I had put in power steering fluid and anti-freeze this morning so we were now ready to start the motor.  After some playing around with the distributor, it suddenly fired.  And kept on running.  We set the timing and had it running well.  Since I only have the front exhaust pipes on, we did not let it run for a very long time as my neighbors might not be wild about that kind of noise.  We did shut it off and restart a few times to check things and it restarted very quickly each time.  No coolant leaks and the only fuel leak was on the right side of my newly rebuilt carbutetor under the diaphragm.  In the brief time we had it running, we could not detect for sure where it was coming from.  I will call the carburetor guy on Monday as he makes house calls.  He has done that on some issues Reese has had with his carb.

 

I videoed the engine start but had discovered this evening that my seven year old camera is so outdated that I have no way of transferring the file to my computer.  It uses a firewire cable and I do not have a firewire on this computer which is only a couple months old as my old computer puked.  The old computer did have a firewire connector.  I am looking into an adapter to go from firewire to either USB or HDMI but am not sure such an adapter exists.

 

3-9-13 antenna smThe other two man job we did today was installing the antenna.  While if fed it up from the bottom, Matt gatherer it and screwed on the fastener.  I will hook it up and install the rest of it next week.

 

 

 

 

So, except for the smokey wires, it was a good day.

3/11/13

 

Did some electrical testing today to see if anything else was damaged by the short from last Saturday.  The issues appear to be that the left headlight motor (the one I had apart) does not work.  I checked the ground and it appears to be OK.  I need to have someone hold down the switch while I check to see if I have voltage there.

 

The headlights work but when I turn them on, both of the turn signal indicators light up and can be dimmed with the dash lights.  The turn signals work but no flashing indicator lights that I can see.  Not sure what the issue is here as it was pretty clear on the photo I used to hook up the wiring on the dash cluster as to which lights went where.

 

3-11-13 antenna smThose are the only two electrical issues that need to be resolved.  They will have to wait as my priority now is to make the car driveable.  I finished up installing the antenna that we had placed in the car Saturday.

 

 

 

 

 

3-11-13 passenger door 2 sm 3-11-13 passenger door sm 3-11-13 vent window 2 sm 3-11-13 vent window 10 smI removed the passenger door window glass and the vent window so I can replace the T pivot that goes into the vent window regulator.  The previous sentence sums up what I did but sure lacks describing that this was a nearly all day affair.  Because I have never done this before, it was confusing trying to figure out how to do it.  I had a couple different online instructions and also looked at the service manual.  Clear as mud!!  Basically I took everything apart that I could which includes the  four screws that mount the vent window to the door under the weatherstrip, the two other mounts on the door itself, the three screws that bolt the rear lower track to the door, the bolts that hold the regulator track to the door and, finally, the two nuts that attach the window to the regulator mechanism.  The instruction that finally solved the puzzle was the one that said to lower the regulator while holding the window up, and then lowering the window while sliding the rear lower track to the side so the window could be rotate counter clockwise.  Once the window has been rotated, it can then be lifted out of the door.  With the window out of the way, it was relativey easy to remove the vent window.

 

 

 

3-11-13 vent window 3 sm 3-11-13 vent window 9 sm 3-11-13 vent window 7 sm 3-11-13 vent window 10 sm 3-11-13 vent window 5 sm 3-11-13 vent window smThe problem was that the T pivot was broken.  To get the T-pivot out, you must first remove the rivet on the vent window hinge.  Virginia Vettes recommended grinding it off as opposed to drilling it out.  I did that but ended up having to drill as well as it was reluctant to let go.  Once this rivet is out, the vent window and its frame can be separated from the rest of the mechanism.  Now the glass must be removed from the frame.  Here Virginia Vettes recommended first rocking the glass at the top and then at the bottom and go back and forth and it will pop out of there.  They neglected to say it would be about an hour later!!!  Obviously, I was very concerned about both breaking the glass and bending the frame.  I held it in the vise by the T pivot and gently rocked it until it finally “popped” out.  In one of the photos below you will notice that the glass has a curve cut out at the bottom to clear the T pivot bracket and rivets.  Now all I have to do is remove the T pivot rivets and then put everything back together.  This will have to wait until some more parts arrive.

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