Body Off Restoration of 1964 Corvette Coupe – Part 30


2-10-13 dash harness sm 2-10-13 circuit breaker 2 sm 2-10-13 circuit breaker sm 2-10-13 headlight motor switch 2 smAfter reading the answers to where the red wires hooked up, I wondered where the circuit breaker was.  Then I remembered a large gob of electrical tape on the old harness.  At the same time I wondered if the headlight motor switch might also be on the harness as I have not been able to locate it.  Sure enough, they were both there.  As I removed the plug for the switch, it came apart and a piece of the plastic broke off.  The contacts had quite a bit of wear as well so I ordered a new one.  The circuit breaker still had the mounting bracket attached to it.  I cleaned them up and will be installing it tomorrow.



2-10-13 ac hose sm 2-10-13 ac hose 3 smReese has his compressor and hoses installed.  After looking at the hoses, I realized that I needed to change the routing of my large AC hose.  I tucked it back under the fender to shorten it up after taking some measurements from Reese’s car.  Should line up better now.





2-10-13 powerblock 2 sm 2-10-13 powerblock 3 sm 2-10-13 powerblock 4 sm 2-10-13 powerblock 7 smYesterday I bought some powerblocks for the 12V battery runs and for use as a ground strip.  After looking at Reese’s car, looking at a photo I took in Kissimmee of an AC car with the battery in place on the driver’s side and looking at my car, I decided to mount the powerblocks in the windshield wiper bag bracket area.  Once the bag is installed, they are mostly hidden.  Removing the bag is easy and gives me access to the powerblocks.  I mounted the circuit breaker for the AC line above the powerblocks.  I plan on painting the clear plastic covers black which will make them go away some more.




2-11-13 rear bump stop 5 sm 2-11-13 rear bump stop 3 sm 2-11-13 rear bump stop 4 sm 2-11-13 rear bump stop 2 sm 2-11-13 rear bump stop smProductive day!!!  I began with modifying the upper rear bump stops.  I had ordered a stock set.  However, if mounted in the stock fashion, they would have hit the brake calipers before hitting the control arm.  Obviously they were designed for a car with drum brakes.  The stock mounting has a stud that bolts to the outside with a threaded hole in the center for a bolt.  I cut off the stud and reversed the mounting position with the pad on the inside.  There now is only one bolt holding it on but I can’t see where that would be a problem.



2-11-13 soldering gun sm 2-11-13 battery 2 sm 2-11-13 battery 4 sm 2-11-13 battery 3 smI then installed the two accessory wires to the battery side terminals.  I crimped the wires but, since I don’t trust crimps, I soldered them as well.  This is my standard practice as I solder every connection.  My son turned me on to a butane solder iron that you can buy at Radio Shack.  It works great, especially in tight situations.




2-11-13 backup ligjht wiring 2 sm 2-11-13 backup ligjht wiring 3 sm 2-11-13 backup ligjht wiring smI had to go to my old wiring harness box to find the wires for the backup light.  After cleaning it up, it looked like new.







2-11-13 firewall wiring & hoses 2 sm 2-11-13 firewall wiring & hoses 3 sm 2-11-13 firewall wiring & hoses smThe wiring from the dash harness that goes to the engine bay was a bit short.  I had tied off some wires that would not be used under the dash which had effectively shortened the wires.  After cutting loose the zip ties and repositioning the wires, I was able to make them reach.  I hooked up the wiper motor wiring, the wire to the resistor, and hooked up the hoses for the windshield washer pump.  Since I have a real issue with bare wires showing, I placed the wires in a loom.  I also installed the grommet in the firewall for these wires and the copper tube for the oil pressure gauge.




2-11-13 heater hose clamp smWhile in the engine bay, I installed a bracket on one of the heater hoses and then tied the two of them together.  This will keep the hoses away from the exhaust manifold and keep some weight off of the expansion tank fitting.  There was no parking brake light switch on the car when I took it apart.  I installed a new one today.  2-11-13 parking brake switch sm 2-11-13 courtesy light switch sm 2-11-13 courtesy light switch 3 sm 2-11-13 courtesy light switch 2 smI also ran the wires for the door courtesy light switches and installed the courtesty light on the right side. Since the wire fit loosely to the switch I soldered it as well.




2-11-13 headlight circuit breaker 2 smThe red wires found their home on the headlamp circuit breaker.  I did have to order a mount as the snap in connector that goes into the square mounting hole.






2-11-13 VA & factory wiring sm 2-11-13 VA wires sm 2-11-13 USB cable smThe purple wire from the Vintage Air evaporator goes to 12V ignition.  According to everything I have read, the best place to find this source is the brown heater wire.  I soldered a spade connector to the purple wire and simply plugged it in.  Again, I enclosed all of the factory wiring harness as well as the purple wire in a loom leaving the wire for the glove box protruding.  I hooked up the antenna cable and placed the remaining cable behind the radio.  Also left protruding is the USB cable from the radio which I will run to the glove box.  The Vintage Air wires for the heat control switch are suspended on the left side.  I still have a ground to hook up for the radio but I ran out of time.





2-11-13 dash 3 sm 2-11-13 dash 4 smI also finalized securing the dash.  I loosely started the bolts and then pop riveted the ends.  Once the pop rivets were in, I finished tightening up the bolts.







2-12-13 ground straps 12 sm 2-12-13 ground straps sm 2-12-13 ground straps 8 sm 2-12-13 ground straps 7 smThe car was very grounded today.  I spent most of the day installing the various ground straps.  By mistake, I had purchased two sets of grounding straps and managed to use all but one of the straps from both kits.  The first strap I installed was the one from the antenna to the frame.  Initially I attached it to the frame but later decided it would be better to attach it to the antenna mount.There are two ground straps from the exhaust to the frame.





2-12-13 ground straps 5 sm 2-12-13 ground straps 9 sm 2-12-13 ground straps 10 smThere is a ground strap from the #2 body mount to the sill on the driver’s side.  I installed an extra strap on the passenger side.  Another strap is to the accelerator arm.





2-12-13 ground straps 6 sm 2-12-13 ground straps 4 sm 2-12-13 ground straps 3 sm 2-12-13 ground straps 2 smThe one I wished I had done earlier was from the frame to the motor mount on the passenger side.  To get to the hole on the frame, I had to remove the fuel pump (for about the third time!!!).  As will all of the other holes, I had to use a chaser because of the powdercoating in the hole.




2-12-13 ground straps 13 sm 2-12-13 ground straps 16 sm 2-12-13 tap & die smYesterday, on another thread, it was mentioned that the relay for the cooling fan needed to be grounded to the frame.  That sounded like a good idea so I used one of the extra straps to go from the radiator core support to the frame.  I still had my old core support.  Holding it up to the frame gave me an idea of where I needed to drill and tap a hole for the ground strap.  Last year my son and I did two big projects on his ’69 Camaro which required quite a bit of drill and tapping.  I had a very cheap set of taps and dies that I was not very happy with.  I bought this set and, while it is not the best in the world, it is surely a huge improvement on what I had.





2-12-13 ground straps 15 sm 2-12-13 ground straps 14 sm 2-12-13 battery tray smReese was visiting in the midst of all of this and the taillight grounds were discussed.  I attached the remaining ground straps to a taillight lugs on each side.  I will attach these to the frame later on.  To facilitate the body drop, I removed the battery from the tray and also removed the battery access panel.


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