Body Off Restoration of 1964 Corvette Coupe – Part 27


1-23-13 headlights 17 sm 1-23-13 headlights 14 sm 1-23-13 headlights 2 smI finished up installing the headlight buckets this morning.  Adjusting the headlights laterally is done by the ring on the outside end which has a set screw and the Y stop on the inside.  Accessing the set screw on the ring is difficult as you cannot see anything in the corner.  To make this easier, I used the masking tape gimmick again by taping the hex key to the ring and then tightening it.  I am waiting to see if the new style headlight motors will be available soon.  If so, I will install them once I have them.



1-23-13 headlights 13 sm 1-23-13 headlights 12 sm 1-23-13 headlights 11 sm 1-23-13 turn signal plug 2 sm 1-23-13 turn signal plug 3 sm 1-23-13 turn signal plug 4 sm 1-23-13 turn signal plug 6 sm 1-23-13 turn signal plug smNow it was time to hook up the wiring to the headlights themselves.  There is a separate wiring harness for the headlights that has no plug on one end so you can feed the harness out of the bucket.  The finished ends are then inserted into the plug to be attached to the harness.  The other plug in this area is for the front turn signals.  The receptacle is secured in a rubber grommet.  This grommet is inserted into a hole in the front inner fender and then plugged in on the front side.





1-23-13 headlights 9 sm 1-23-13 headlights 8 sm 1-23-13 headlights 7 sm 1-23-13 headlights 6 sm 1-23-13 headlights 4 sm 1-23-13 headlights 3 smNow it was time to prep the headlight buckets.  I had removed the headlight adjusters prior to having the car painted.  Before removing them, I marked each one with magic markers and then photographed them.  Today it was simply a matter of putting the right ones back in place.  Hopefully, the headlight adjustments will be close.  This process also highlighted why restoration is so time consuming.  Each of the screws had overspray on them.  So I mounted one screw at a time in my needle nose vise grips and bead blasted them.  Very time consuming but I could not see putting them back in the original condition nor could I see replacing them as they were in good condition.  I applied the same process to the retaining springs.


Way back in August I had removed the headlight retainers and painted them.  They are back in the car along with the headlights on one side.  I also installed the rubber plugs in the headlight bolt access holes.



Had to visit the dentist this morning.  Don’t understand why life gets in the way of working on the car!!!


1-28-13 dash crossmember 4 sm 1-28-13 dash crossmember 3 sm 1-28-13 dash crossmember 2 sm 1-28-13 dash crossmember smThe VIN plate is spot welded on the early cars rather than riveted as on the later cars.  Proof that my VIN plate is authentic is seen in the rust around the plate caused by the welding process.  My original plan was to keep the rust area as proof of originality.  However, the more I looked at it, the more I wanted to make it look better.  So I masked it off today and gave it a quick covering of paint.  I tried to make it look like the accidental painting of the black color as happened in 1964.



My buddy Reese was having carburetor issues and wanted to have it rebuilt.  My engine builder recommended a guy who happened to live only 10 miles from us.  I had some leaks on my carb as well so we took both of them to the guy this afternoon.  He will rebuild and restore them to their original finishes.  By the way, both of our carburetors correctly dated for the production of our cars.


1-28-13 dash wiring 2 sm 1-28-13 dash wiring 3 sm 1-28-13 dash wiring smI didn’t have much time left but I did work on the dash wiring harness.  I have some questions about it.  Does the main harness mount on top of the crossmember or in front of it?  My photos show it in front but I may have pulled it down when removing the gauge cluster.  Also, what do the white plastic fasteners attach to?  I ran the wires through the hole to the firewall area.  Which side of the support rod should the wires run?

I also routed the plug for the dimmer switch behind the insulation panel.





Since it was around 70 here today and, since I paint outdoors, I prepared some items for painting.


1-29-13 washer bag bracket sm 1-29-13 alternator bracket smI bought an alternator belt sized to keep the alternator as close to the block as possible.  That left a bunch of the alternator bracket hanging in the wind.  My son shortened it and I painted it today.  I also painted the windshield washer bag bracket that is required with moving of the battery to the driver’s side.







1-29-13 vintage air panels 3 sm 1-29-13 vintage air panels 2 sm 1-29-13 vintage air panels sm 1-29-13 dash 7 smI do not like the grainy finish on the Vintage Air side panel replacements.  So today I spent most of the day sanding them down smooth (or as close to smooth as I could get) and dyed them dark blue.






1-29-13 dash 5 sm 1-29-13 dash 4 sm 1-29-13 dash 6 sm 1-29-13 dash 2 sm 1-29-13 dash smSince I will be following the advice from yesteday to install the dash as a unit with the wiring hooked up, I got it down from the attic and attached one dash pad before it was time to quit.  These fasteners are unique as you insert the small end in the hole and then use a pliers to squeeze the wide end which expand the narrow end inside the hole.





1-30-13 cookie pan 4 sm 1-30-13 cookie pan 3 sm 1-30-13 cookie pan 2 sm 1-30-13 cookie pan 5 sm 1-30-13 cookie pan smI have not been happy with the plate that covers the heater opening that came with the Vintage Air kit.  I called Vintage Air on Monday to see if they still had the firewall cover that came with their earlier kit.  They no longer have them.  I caulked it on the firewall side but it is not very attractive.    My buddy has made a plate to fit over the opening and I was considering that.  I was lying in bed this morning thinking about it when I wondered if one of my wife’s cookie pans might work.  Hers were all too big but a trip to the local Wal-Mart was successful.  I drilled four holes to mount it, three holes on the bottom just in case any liquid gets inside and one hole on the side that will get a grommet for the AC wiring.  Once I had it ready and trial mounted, I painted it.


1-30-13 dash smVery occasionally I get a call from one of my buddies to pick up cars at car auctions to drive back to the dealer who bought them.  Today was one of those days so the afternoon was mostly lost.  After I got home, I brought the dash into the house to attach the other dash pad.  I will keep it in the house until I am ready to install it as it is less likely to be damaged.  Still waiting on my instrument cluster to come back.







1-31-13 VA drain 2 sm 1-31-13 VA drain 4 sm 1-31-13 VA drain smInstalled the drain for the evaporator this morning.






1-31-13 speaker sm 1-31-13 dash 6 sm 1-31-13 dash 5 smBrought the dash out to install the speaker and defroster vent.  As I mentioned, I will be installing a Ken Harrison aftermarket radio.  This speaker will give me stereo but obviously very little separation.  At this point all I want is sound.  I can add an amp and speakers later but I doubt if I will.




1-31-13 dash 3 sm 1-31-13 dash smNext up were the controls for the Vintage Air.  You have to cut a 1/8″ notch for the control to slot into.  Initially I thought this would be easy as I would be notching fiberglass.  However, I forgot that there is a metal reinforcement in this area.  About a year ago Reese and I were at the local Harbor Freight store and he talked me into buying this air hack saw.  Since it was the only cutting took I had that fit into the small hole, I decided to give it a try.  Worked great.  Once I had the rough hole cut out, I used the shaper on my Dremel tool to finish it off.  I felt very fortunate that I could do this from the rear so if the tool slipped it was not a big deal as it would have been on my freshly stained front.




1-31-13 VA switch sm 1-31-13 dash 8 sm 1-31-13 dash 13 sm1-31-13 dash 2 smNow I could install the control switches.  Mounting the switches is a collar nut.  The collar area was too large to fit through the standard holes and I had to use a round file to make them a bit larger.  Once it was all together, I installed the plugs on the rear and tie wrapped them as VA recommended.






1-31-13 dash 19 sm 1-31-13 dash 18 sm 1-31-13 dash 17 sm1-31-13 dash 15 smTo use the original C2 knobs, you have to drill out the center with 3/16″, then 1/4″ and finally 17/64″  bits.  I set up the knob on my drill press.  There is an insert that fits into the knob that had a flat side to mate up with the control switch shaft.







1-31-13 VA wiring sm 1-31-13 VA wiring 2 smThat last thing I did today was run the Vintage Air wires into the engine bay.  I shrink wrapped all of the wires together to feed them through the grommet.



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