Body Off Restoration of 1964 Corvette Coupe – Part 21


12-5-12 ps belt 5 sm12-5-12 ps belt 4 sm12-5-12 ps belt 6 sm12-5-12 ps belt smHard to believe I could spend a whole day doing so little.  Sometimes what should be an easy job turns out not to be so.  I installed the harmonic balancer pulley with the add-on pulley for the power steering pump.  I then installed the power steering pulley and had a problem.  When I put a straight edge on the balancer puller, the PS pulley didn’t line up in two directions.  On the one hand it had to be spaced out to line up with the balancer pulley and it also needed to be spaced out at the adjustable mounting point so it would line up straight.  Once I found a spacer that I thought would work, I had to cut a groove in it to clear the woodruff key.  It took me three times to get the spacer right.  I then lined it up at the mount and stuck spacers in until I had it right.  To stick those spacers on the stud, I had to remove the front mount bolts so I could pull the pump away from the lower mount enough to slide on the spacers.  It took me all morning to get this right.  The problem may have been that all of these mounts and pulleys were aftermarket copies of the originals.



12-5-12 belt calculator sm12-5-12 ps belt 3 smNow it was time to size the belt.  I used a piece of wire but had to make two trips to get the correct size.  I then tightened up the AC mounts and was ready to size that belt.  It was then that I remembered my “Garage Buddy” app.  One of its functions is to size a belt if you know the pulley size and distance from each pulley.  I had never used it before but after two trips for the PS belt, I decided to give it a try.  It called for a 57.58″ belt and the 57.5″ belt I bought fit perfectly. I sure will use this in the future.  I am still waiting for the alternator to be refurbished.



12-5-12 rag joint 3 sm12-5-12 rag joint 2 sm 12-5-12 rag joint sm12-5-12 zbar felt washer smNext up I replaced the rag joint on the steering box.  I discovered there is a ground strap on the back side.  After hitting it with the bead blaster and filing the mounting points, I should have a good ground connection.  An earlier post noticed that I had forgotten to install the felt seal on the Z-Bar mount on the engine side.  Did that today.



12-6-12 brackets 2 sm 12-6-12 interior 4 sm 12-6-12 tape door jamb sm 12-6-12 wiper arm 2 sm12-6-12 brackets 4 sm 12-6-12 brackets 3 sm 12-6-12 parts sm 12-6-12 wiper arm 4 sm 12-6-12 wiper arm 3 smIt only took 3 1/2 months but today I began working on the interior at the point I left it the day I broke my wrist.  First thing I masked off the door openings.  I removed the two braces to the crossbar and I also removed the wiper motor arms and the pedal cluster.   Then I broke out the scraper and begin removing the insulation and glue.  I got the front part finished around lunch time.  After lunch, I began scraping the rear but my wrist was talking to me big time.  So I bead blasted the brackets and the wiper arms followed with painting them.  The brake cluster was in remarkably good condition requiring only a good cleanup.




12-6-12 interior 2 sm 12-7-12 interior cleaning sm12-7-12 interior dirty 2 sm12-7-12 interior clean 13 sm 12-7-12 interior clean 12 smThere was a whole lot of scraping going on today.  I finished up scraping the insulation in the rear area.  Once I had it all scraped, I got out the hose and some soapy water and washed the interior.  The last dirty job is done.  My son is coming over tomorrow and we are going to rivet the various reinforcements and holders in place.  First time for us installing these kind of rivets but I am sure we will figure it out.  When I told my wife we were going to rivet tomorrow, she thought we should dress in frog costumes to really get into the spirit.  NOT!!!



Rivet!  Rivet!  Rivet!!

12-8-12 splash shield mount 2 sm 12-8-12 splash shield mount smMy son arrived around 10:00 this morning to help install the rivets to various reinforcement pieces and brackets.  This was a first for us installing these types of rivets but we soon were moving right along.  We decided to begin with the splash shield mounts as they were not quite as critical as some of the others.  The mount that also serves as the mount for the accelerator pedal was mounted on with the two bolts with nuts for the accelerator pedal.  No rivets.  We mounted the rivet tool in our air hammer while I was inside the car with my big hammer to hold the rivets in place.  It worked great and very securely mounted the plates.


12-8-12 expansion tank mount 2 sm 12-8-12 washer tank mount smNext we installed the windshield washer bottle bracket and the expansion tank bracket.





12-8-12 rear mount 4 sm 12-8-12 rivet tool sm 12-8-12 big hammer smThe rear body mount reinforcement brackets were next.  The cage nut for the left rear one had completely rusted away so we had to install that prior to installing the reinforcement bracket.  The two outside rivets were too close to the fender to get the air hammer in place.  Normally these rivets are installed with the flat head on the inside of the car.  For the outside ones we placed the head on the outside and flattened it against a washer on the inside.  Not original but functional.


12-8-12 center body mounts sm 12-8-12 center body mounts 2 smNow it was time to rivet in the center body mount reinforcements which also double as the inner seat belt mounts.  Here again we ran out of room on the inside rivet and had to install it with a washer as we did on the rear one.  While the rivet holes lined up perfectly on these mounts, the hole for the body mount bolt was way off.  I will have to enlarge this hole with the die grinder.



12-8-12 seat belt mount 2 sm 12-8-12 seat belt mount 3 sm 12-8-12 seat belt mount smLast, but not least, was installing the shoulder belt mounts that came standard on the ’67 cars.  I had not been impressed with the should belt kits and took this opportunity to install these mounts which could only be installed with the body off.  We lined up the mount and drilled the center hole for the bolt first.  We then bolted it to the body and then drilled the holes for the rivets.  Worked like a charm.  By noon we had everything finished.  Much easier than we had anticipated.



12-10-12 seat left smGot a call on Friday that my seats were finished.  The seat covers were in good shape but the foam was broken down.  I took them to the same guy who did my friend Reese’s ’38 Chevy.  It is a very nicely done interior so I knew this guy did good work.  And he did.  The seats look so much better with the new foam.  The old foam was not as dense as the new foam and on the seat backs foam had been added rather than replacing the foam.  Reese is still looking for a C2 Corvette so we had made plans to look at some cars on the way to picking up the seats.  Didn’t find anything that tripped his trigger but he is serious.  He ordered a four post lift today so he would have a place to put a new purchase.  We will be travelling to Greensboro, NC later this week to pick it up.



12-10-12 brake pedal bushing sm12-10-12 dust shields 5 sm12-10-12 dust shields 3 sm 12-10-12 dust shields 2 smI did have a couple hours to work this afternoon.  The brake pedal bushing had arrived and I installed it.  I then installed the staples for the main dust covers.  Tedious but necessary work.




  1. Jerry on the amp meter looked at the diagram shot in the dark
    make sure tan wire going to horn button is not touching closing to the realy ,also check lighter make sure its not closing and clear .
    there a black from the amp gauage to the fuse block make sure its clear and you done have a circuit of of it .you can always go back to the plus post and put a light in series see if a load is there ,and the amp meter itself should be tight on connections .last case take a
    contunity tester make sure there is nothing leaking to the ground straps on frame and exhaust gas linkage and driver cage also check cluster ground .another way is to put all fuses in and pull 1 circuit at a time till it clears at the amp meter . Good luck Richard Truman

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